Introducing The Louis Vuitton x Kari Voutilainen LVKV-02 GMR 6
Louis Vuitton releases its second collaboration with a renowned independent watchmaker, a GMT watch, and this time it is with no other than Master Watchmaker Kari Voutilainen.
In 2023, Louis Vuitton kickstarted its project, helmed by the energetic and passionate Jean Arnault who leads LV’s watch division, to create a series of watches (Five in total) conceptualized and crafted in partnership with an independent watchmaker. The first watch to see the light of day was the Louis Vuitton x Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie which was released with Rexhep Rexhepi of Atelier Akrivia in 2023.
Today, Louis Vuitton announces their second collaboration watch, the LVKV-02 GMR 6, in partnership with Finnish-born Master Watchmaker Kari Voutilainen, which is the first timepiece in LV’s collaboration project to feature a GMT complication. Made in only 5 examples, the proceeds of this exclusive collaboration will be used towards supporting the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives initiative, which Voutilainen is a member of.
Using the skills of master craftspeople at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, and the talents inside Voutilainen’s workshop, the goal of this collaboration is to take the concept of the travel watch with GMT function and elevate it to a true work of art on the wrist. A travel watch makes sense for LV given its long heritage and expertise in the art of travel, and know-how in trunkmaking. It seemed inevitable then to use Louis Vuitton’s revamped Escale watch from 2024 as the base for this partnership. It is also good to remember that when the original Escale model was introduced in 2014, it carried a World Time complication where each city location was decorated with a colorful hand-painted blazon. These were used historically to identify the owners of LV trunks in the past. This miniature painting technique makes its way back to the LVKV-02 GMR 6, but more on that later.
The LVKV-02 GMR 6 boasts a tantalum 40.5m case with other elements made of platinum such as the bezel, lugs, crown, back, and strap buckle. Speaking of the lugs, you’ll notice that their angled forms and rivets are a clear design connection to the Maison’s iconic trunks and the brass brackets found on them. All the elements of the case create a great contrast of matte and polished finish, and require a lengthy amount of work for each piece. The satin-finish on the tantalum case takes almost four hours to complete, and each lug requires an hour to sharpen and polish the platinum material to LV’s highest standards. Oh, and all of the work is done by hand inside Louis Vuitton’s manufacture at La Fabrique du Temps.
The gold dial is where this piece of art for the wrist comes to life. Let’s start with the center, and avid watch enthusiasts will immediately recognize the intricate hand guilloché work done by Kari Voutilainen’s workshop. This complex process is all done by hand using vintage machinery that dates back to the 18th century.
Moving down we find the second time zone subdial which has been adorned with another piece of craftsmanship coming from Voutilainen’s workshop: the day-and-night indicator with a superb sun and moon imagery. The tricky part of this small disc is the enameling, and being able to create a delicate gradient effect requires an experienced artist’s touch. Look even closer and you’ll notice Louis Vuitton’s famed Monogram flower representing the stars on the night indicator.
We mentioned before the colorful hand-painted blazon present on the original Escale World Time from 2014; well their spiritual successors appear here on the hour circle sitting beneath the polished white gold Roman numerals. This miniature painting artwork is hand-decorated by Maryna Bossy who is a skilled artisan at La Fabrique des Arts – the Métiers d’Art workshop at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. This intricate colorful work requires 32 hours of precise painting using 28 different colors.
The hands used for the watch will also be immediately recognizable as a signature element of any Voutilainen watch just as the “Voutilainen” brand name featured at 12 o’clock, but with a little twist here as the first letter V has been intertwined with the the famous “LV” logo of the French Maison.
If you remember well, on the first collaboration watch between Louis Vuitton and Akrivia, the “LV” logo was also intertwined with the letter “V” in Akrivia. Does that mean we should be looking at other independent watchmakers with that letter in that name to discover who will be the next one to partner with Louis Vuitton? Only time will tell.
Flipping the watch over reveals the GMR 6 movement which is exceptionally hand decorated and designed, built, fabricated and assembled in Voutilainen’s workshop. Immediately, you’ll notice the large balance wheel allowing for extremely precise regulation with strict tolerances; this is a typical characteristic of Voutilainen’s movement architectures. The balance-spring system uses a Phillips overcoil for the exterior of the spring, while the internal curve utilizes a Grossmann curve, further enhancing accuracy.
The other unique element on the GMR 6 movement is the mainspring cover which is adorned with a kaleidoscopic pattern of multi-colored miniature painting, also hand-applied by Maryna Bossy.
If you are wondering what the GMR 6 name represents, let’s break it down. “GM” comes from GMT representing the 24 hours disc showcasing the second time zone. The “R” signifies the retrograde power reserve display. Finally, the “6” represents the location of the second time zone subdial at the 6 o’clock position on the dial.
As beautiful as the watch is, it is worth mentioning that it is extremely easy to use as a travel watch. The 24-hour second time zone subdial at 6 o’clock is synced to the main hour hand and acts as the home time. Simply push the GMT pusher integrated into the crown to separate the central hour hand to make it your local time when you travel.
Each of the 5 watches will be delivered with a special travel trunk crafted in Louis Vuitton’s workshop in Asnières. Once built, the trunk will go into the hands of skilled artisans who will hand-paint a design replicating the one seen on the dial of the watch, and each trunk will also have the unique edition number adorned on it.
SPECIFICATIONS
Louis Vuitton x Kari Voutilainen LVKV-02 GMR 6
Limited edition of 5 pieces
Case: Escale case made of tantalum and platinum; 40.5mm × 12.54mm; 20mm lug size; water-resistant to 30m (The watch is splash-resistant but should not be immersed).
Dial: Hand-guilloché gold dial; Diamond-hour circle in miniature painting by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton; Second time zone disc in gold (24-hour format) with day/night indication engraved and enameled by hand; Gold and blued-steel hands.
Movement: Manual-winding mechanical movement (GMR 6 calibre) manufactured, finished and assembled in the Voutilainen workshop. Two direct-impulse escapement wheels in blued steel.
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve indicator, second time zone at 6 o’clock with day/night indication; 32 jewels; 18,000 vibrations per hour, balance wheel
equipped with rose gold adjustment weights; Balance spring with Phillips terminal curve
and Grossmann inner curve; 65h of power reserve.
Straps: Grey fabric strap with edging on top, brown leather lining; Anthracite alligator strap with edging on top, black leather lining; Platinum pin buckle.
Trunk: High watchmaking trunk in Monogram Eclipse canvas, hand-painted with a design reflecting the watch dial.